A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration (a city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas)of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships) household units producing handicraft/handloom products. In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old Artisan.

About Sawai Mdhopur  Cluster:-

Sawai Mdhopur  Cluster falls under Rajasthan State in Jaipur  district.

The Sawai Mdhopur cluster is able to form 200 plus Artisans & 25 SHGs supporting the strong work force. The mobilization gains momentum day by day. Sawai Mdhopur cluster is famous for Hand Printed and Embroidery Crafts.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Hand Printed:-

In Rajasthan, there are sandy stretches of desert where a unique method of cloth-dyeing prevails. The technique is called Ajrakh and the print is in dark shades of blue and red with geometrical patterns on both sides of the fabric. The technique is a complicated one and the steps include preparatory washing, application of mordant, resist printing, de-gumming, and dyeing. The resist substances used are gach (a mud resist) and kariyana, which is a mixture of the gum of the babul tree and chuna or lime. The lime provides a smooth texture and prevents the resist from cracking.After the final dyeing the cloth is sun-dried. It is dipped every night in a cow-dung solution and kept under a stone all night. Washing is done the next morning in the river and the drying is done on the sand. When half-dry, water is sprinkled on the cloth continuously. On the third day, the cloth is finally washed in the river, brought to the work-place and dried.

Chanderi Stoles and Dupattas, Mangalgiri Salwar Suits and Sarees, Maheshwari Salwar Suits and Sarees, Tussar Salwar Suits and Sarees, Georgette Sarees, Chiffon Sarees, Printed fabrics in Khadi cotton and Khadi Silk, Printed Cottons in Voile and Sheeting.

Hand printed textiles including block and screen printing, batik, Kalmkari (hand printing by pen) and bandhani (tie and die) are used in products ranging from bed-covers to sheets, dress material to upholstery and tapestry.  The famous embroidered articles of silk and cotton often embellished with mirrors, shells, beads, and metallic pieces are also found in India.  Embroidery is done too on leather, felt and velvet etc.  This segment of the industry accounts for almost half a million strong employment in addition to a large number of designers, block makers, weavers and packers involved in the trade

Raw Materials Used :-

Any filament, fibre, or that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting material itself. The word originally referred only to woven fabrics but now includes knitted, bonded, felted, and tufted fabrics as well. The basic raw materials used in textile production are fibres, either obtained from natural sources (e.g.,wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., and polyester. Textiles are classified according to their component fibers into silk, wool, linen, cotton, such synthetic fibers as rayon, nylon, and polyesters, and some inorganic fibers, such as cloth of gold, glass fiber, and asbestos cloth.

Process:-

Textile hand printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the, so as to resistwashing andfriction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:

Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours.[1] Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.

1. Creation of the screens-the screens are made by tightly stretching a finely women Dacron mesh fabric over a stainless steel frame. The Dacron is coated with a light sensitive emulsion, this is laid on top of a drawing, created from opaque black ink, which is then exposed to light to produce a "negative'image. The result is a screen, that when covered with ink, will only allow ink to penetrate according to the drawing.
2. Mixing and application of the ink.
3. Pinning of the fabric to the printing table.
4. Printing of the fabri -the screen is laid over the substrate material and ink is squeegied across the screen so that the ink permeates.
5. Drying of the fabric

Techniques:-

This technique the intended pattern along with the individual color is formed by projecting small drops of ink which are special dye liquors in predetermined micro arrays onto the surface of the substrate. This is earliest form of printing used for the purpose of increasing the decorative value of textiles. This is the traditional technique of tie and dye. a spray gun is used to force the color through a screen and electro coating is used to apply a patterned pile. This technique involves tying up of both wrap and weft threads where original color needs to be retained and then dyed.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Embroidery:-

Jaisalmer is the trade centre for embroidery and mirror work items. Quilts are appliquéd with geometrically shaped pieces of dark colours. Camel and horse saddles are decked with embroidery and appliqué with a hook. Verities of colored threads are used on the shoes.

The pichwai of Nathdwara, is an cloth-hanging which is embroidered and used as a decoration in temples. Gold thread is used in some to highlight the design. Appliquéd pichwai has red cotton background and stitches are in cream, green, yellow, and black; white is used for the outlines.

The women in Rajasthan are well skilled at embroidery and design attractive motifs like of tree, birds and animals on their long skirts (ghaghras) Women at Bikaner embroider chunky red woolen shawls with a running stitch, in a bandhini pattern.

The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework;or embellishment with fanciful details.Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.Embroidery of Rajasthan has earned its fame because of the versatility of creations by the artisans.The artisans of Rajasthan use an array of stitches that are used to decorate the items.The most important centres of embroidery work of Rajasthan are located in the Jaipur regions and are admired for the creative excellence.The embroidery of Rajasthan is one of the main sources of income for different other communities.Today, even though embroidery is amongst the most traditional methods of decorating clothes,it is still as popular.Designs may date back to ancient times,or the modern geometric modern day designs,but all the same embroidery continues to be one of the common ways of decorating clothes.In fact,specialists feel that today,there is much more scope for creativity and innovation,because of the acceptance level.

This has ornamentation of tikris and beads,which make them,look attractive.This type of embroidery is done on a frame of wooden beams.The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used,usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.Decorative tikris and beads are attached to the cloth with the needle.

Another embroidery pattern is the jaali or net embroidery in geometric or floral shapes and is done by pulling the warp and weft threads and fixing them with minute buttonhole stitches.The finished products dominantly comprise items for household use like curtains,bedspreads,furniture covers and dress material.

Raw Materials used:-

The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.

Process:-

As embroidery is not so technical craft to follow procedure but then also small process like:

1. The motif is made on the tracing screen for symmetrical marking and uniformity,like the Khaka.
2. The motifs are marked on the fabric with a marking mixer(liquid) for embroidery work.
3. Now set the marked fabric very tight from all directions.(Saree,Dress materials,etc.)On Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also).
4. It will work easier to do embroidery with the help of frame to reduce tension and get pucker less product.
5. The desired motif is neatly embroidered with different stitches(Pakko,Kachho,Soof,Rabari,kharek etc)to  achieve desired motif.
6. The result can be many colors and is easy to make.

Set the fabric(Saree,Dress,material,etc.)on Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also) according to the design with desired allowance for the product.The motif is made the tracing screen for symmetrical making and uniformity,like the Khaka.The motif is marked with a marking mixer in a liquid form (Kerosene and gali powder) whether for embroidery the desired motif is neatly embroidery with different stitches to achieve desired motif.

Embroidery designs are prepared by fixing small round shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch,the outline being sketched by hand.Silken thread is used for the stitching done in stem or herringbone,closely worked.Flowers and creepers are patterned against a dark background.

Techniques:-

Techniques vary with the community and region.The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework; or embellishment with fanciful details. Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.This includes the hand and machine embroidery methods.And till date,hand embroidery continues to be an expensive and time-consuming method.However,in spite of this it is preferred because of the intricacy of the handiwork involved.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Patchwork:-

Patchwork or "pieced work" is a form of needlework that involves sewing together pieces of fabric into a larger design. The larger design is usually based on repeat patterns built up with different fabric shapes (which can be different colors). These shapes are carefully measured and cut, basic geometric shapes making them easy to piece together. Precise joining by the most part with a quarter inch foot makes for a patchwork that lies flat without puckers.

Making:-

In the past, hand quilting was often done in a group around a frame. Instead of quilting, the layers are sometimes tied together at regular intervals with pieces of yarn, a practice known as tying or knotting, and which produces a "comforter".

Techniques:-

There are three traditional structures used to construct a patchwork or pieced composition: 1) the block, 2) overall, and 3) strip piecing. Traditional patchwork has identifying names based on the arrangement of colors and shapes.

Blocks:-

Patchwork blocks are pieced squares made up of colored shapes that repeat specific shapes to create patterns within the square or block, of, say, light and dark, or contrasting colors (motif (textile arts)). The blocks can all repeat the same pattern, or blocks can have several different patterns. The patchwork blocks are typically around 8–10" square (20cm to 25cm). They are sewn together in stacked rows to make a larger composition. Often strips of contrasting fabric forming a lattice separate the patchwork blocks from each other. Some common patchwork block names are Log Cabin, Drunkard's Path, Bear's Paw, Tulip, and Nine Patch.
A unique form of patchwork quilt is the crazy quilt. Crazy quilting was popular during the Victorian era (mid–late 19th century). The crazy quilt is made up of random shapes of luxurious fabric such as velvets, silks, and brocades and buttons, lace, and other embellishments left over from the gowns they had made for themselves. The patchwork pieces are stitched together forming "crazy" or non-repeat, asymmetric compositions. Fancy embroidery embellishes the seam lines between the individual, pieced shapes. The crazy quilt was a status symbol, as only well-to-do women had a staff to do all the household work, and had the time to sew their crazy quilt. Traditionally, the top was left without lining or batting. Many surviving crazy quilts still have the newspaper and other foundation papers used for piecing.

Strip piecing:-

Strip piecing involves stitching together pieces of fabric in repeat patterns into long strips and then stitching the strips together lengthwise. The patchwork strips can be alternated with strips of contrasting colors. A typical strip patchwork quilt is the Flying Geese pattern.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

How to Reach:-

Sawai Madhopur does not have an airport of its own. The nearest airport is at Jaipur. Several airlines service this domestic airport by regular flights and connect it to other important airports like Delhi, Mumbai.The town of Sawai Madhopur is well networked by road to many important cities in north India, like Jaipur, Delhi and so on.The town has a railway station of its own. A well-laid rail network links Sawai Madhopur to major railway stations of the country like: Delhi, Jaipur and many others.